Foraging Report 07/25/2011

Gillian holding the Berkeley's polypore

Boletus bicolor

It has been quite a productive couple of weeks for us. The weather has been a bit unbearable, but foraging near a river is good for an afternoon of cooling off. We went on our first outing with the Connecticut Valley Mycological Society at Salmon River State Forest on July 17th. Even though there had not been a lot of rain, there were at least 50 different types of mushrooms gathered and identified. They collected all the mushrooms they find, not just edibles, to identify and catalog back at the gathering tables. We learned how to best gather mushrooms for easier identification purposes, like try to find several stages of growth (button, fully opened, old) and try to collect some of the growing medium the mushroom is on, like tree bark, moss, or underground source. Many mushrooms have a bulbous bottom that should be collected for ID. The people in this club are very knowledgeable, and usually only supply the genus and species name for each mushroom, for precise identification. We also met many of the members, and looked through some of the books they use. We are looking forward to may more learning sessions. On the day before, we found a large Berkeley's polypore (Bondarzewia berkeleyi), and brought it to place on a separate table to be identified. We cut a bit of the tender edges off to take home and cook, it was tasty with a bit of cracked pepper and oil.

Common milkweed pods (Asclepias syriaca) are growing large enough to gather. They ripen in stages, so one plant will have tiny pods and too-large pods on the same stalk at the same time. Milkweed tends to grow in great colonies in open fields, so it is easy to get them in abundance. They are messy to pick, since they exude their white, sticky latex as soon as they are cut. Robert uses a plastic bucket, but a disposable bag may be easier. We bring them home and give them a scrub with the vegetable brush before boiling them for 5 minutes and shocking them in ice water. After their quick cooking, they are ready to be used in recipes like pickles, salads, stuffed, or just stir fried with soy sauce. I think they taste a bit like green beans, and we usually can't taste any of the reported bitterness most people worry about. Make sure you have common milkweed, it seems to taste the best.

Smooth sumac berry clusters

staghorn sumac berries

Here in southeastern New England, the staghorn sumacs (Rhus typhina) have their ripe berries ready for gathering. We just snap the berry clusters off the tops of the shrub into a bag, trying to avoid the clusters that are obviously filled with bugs. As the season progresses, the clusters will become buggier and less desirable. With the hairy berry clusters, we made some sumac-ade to drink on these hot days, and made a much stronger concentrate to bake a sumac curd topped with meringue. We also use the sumac concentrate as a lemon juice substitute when making jelly. The smooth sumacs (Rhus glabra) have red berry clusters, but are not ripe and sour yet.

wineberries

Himalayan blackberries

Finally, did we mention the berries yet? Wineberries (Rubus phoanicolasius) and Himalayan blackberries (Rubus discolor) have ripened in great abundance. The hot, humid weather has made picking a bit uncomfortable, but we try to get out early in the morning before it gets too unbearable. I made 15 jars of plain wineberry jam, using the same recipe and methods I blogged about last year. The recipe uses low-sugar pectin, and a seedless pulpy juice to make a tart, thick jam. Then I made 21 jars of wineberry-blackberry jam. The color is darker, and the flavor is a bit sweeter and fruitier. I look forward to swapping some jams at the Coventry Regional Farmer's Market Foodswaps, and gifting several to friends.

Wineberry Recipe - Wineberry Bavarian

This is a slightly complex recipe, something that would be perfect to bring to a special occasion party to impress the other guests.I made this with wineberries (Rubus phoenicolasius), but using other seedless berry purée would work. I did make an 8" round dessert, plus a few more individual portions since I made a larger recipe, but this recipe will need an 8" round springform pan. I also used a thin spongecake to line the bottom of the dessert. You could use ladyfinger cookies, and then also line the sides of the pan with more cookies.

Wineberry Bavarian                     makes 1 8" cake

spongecake or ladyfinger cookies to line pan

filling:
4 egg yolks
1/2 c. sugar
1 c. milk, hot
1 1/2 c. wineberry purée
1 envelope unflavored Knox gelatin
2 tsp cold water
1 1/2 c. heavy cream

topping:
1/2 c. wineberry purée
2 tsp gelatin
1/3 c. cold water
1 T Chambord liqueur

1. In a mixing bowl, whip the egg yolks and sugar until thick. Add the hot milk, stir. Transfer to a saucepan.
2. Heat the yolk mixture over medium heat while stirring until thick, do not boil. Strain the custard through a mesh strainer into a large bowl and stir in the wineberry purée.
3. Sprinkle the gelatin over the 2 tsp cold water in a small bowl and allow it to get mushy. Melt the gelatin in the microwave for 10 seconds on half power, or place the small bowl in a pot of boiling water until the gelatin has melted. Allow the now-liquid gelatin to cool slightly, then stir it into the custard and raspberry mixture.
4. Place the bowl of raspberry custard in the fridge, and stir it often for about 1 1/2 hours. It will thicken slightly and look like melted ice cream.
5. Whip the heavy cream until stiff peaks form. With a large whisk, fold in 1/3 of the heavy cream into the custard. Then fold in the remaining whipped cream, and whisk gently until there are no more white streaks. Pour this into the cake or cookie lined springform pan. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
6. To make the topping, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/3 c. water in a bowl and let it get mushy. Melt the gelatin in the microwave for 15 seconds on half power, or place the bowl in a pot of hot water until the gelatin has melted. Stir the melted gelatin into the wineberry purée and add the Chambord. Pour this evenly over the top of the bavarian. Chill another 2 hours or overnight before unmolding from the springform pan and slicing.

Garlic Mustard Recipe - Garlic Mustard-Mustard

By gathering the small, black and very numerous seeds from the invasive garlic mustard (Alliara petiolata), we can make a few tasty condiments, dressings and spices. This mustard is hot like wasabi or grated horseradish. The burn will light up your sinuses, but the mustard goes well on a sandwich with something fatty like swiss or ham. We also use the mustard like a traditional dijon in dressings and sauces. Try adding it to macaroni and cheese or a bechemel. We keep it in a jar in the refrigerator, and it may need a quick stir before using.

To grind the hard seeds, Robert uses a coffee grinder. The result is a dark brown powder that should be used immediately.

Garlic Mustard-Mustard                      makes about 1/2 c.

7 T ground garlic mustard seeds
2 tsp apple cider vinegar
1/2 tsp salt
6 T water
2 tsp agave syrup or honey
1/4 tsp turmeric

1. Whisk together the ground seeds with the salt and turmeric. Whisk in the water, honey and vinegar until smooth.
2. Allow the mustard to sit for a week in the refrigerator. It will need to be stirred before use and the color will darken. Keep stored, covered in the fridge for up to a year.

Garlic mustard seed pods

Garlic Mustard Recipe - Garlic Mustard Seed Dressing

In the early summer, the garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) goes to seed. That is a great time to do some invasive weed control while out foraging by gathering the large quantities of seeds the plant produces. These seeds that drop now will over-winter and form the basal rosettes in the very early spring next year. Garlic mustard will form dense clusters of plants, making it relatively easy to gather the seeds. Look for the light brown stalks, topped with skinny fingers that are the dry seed pods.

The seeds are black, comma-shaped and about 1/8" long. By pulling along the dry, brittle stems and along the seed pods, the seeds will fall into your hands or a waiting bucket. Many seeds will fall to the ground, but you should not feel like you are spreading the garlic mustard, since otherwise ALL of the seeds would have fallen to the ground and spread the plant naturally.

If bits of the dry seed pods fall into the bucket, it is no problem. We take 2 large bowls or buckets, and pass the seeds between the two with a high pour to winnow out the much lighter seed pods, dust, and debris. Then we spread the mostly clean seeds on a sheetpan to dry further for a few days. We keep them stored in a glass jar to use for topping breads, adding to bagels, adding to curries like mustard seeds, to make mustard, and to make a dressing.

Garlic Mustard Seed Dressing                              makes about 2 c. dressing

1 1/2 T dijon mustard, or prepared garlic mustard-mustard

1/2 lemon with rind, diced and seeds removed

3 shallots or 4 ramps bulbs

6 T honey

pinch cayenne

pinch white pepper

1/4 tsp salt

1 c. olive oil

6 T rice vinegar

1 T garlic mustard seeds

1. In a hot oven or over coals, roast the shallots or ramps bulbs until soft and charred. Cool.

2. Place the dijon or garlic mustard-mustard, diced lemon, and roasted shallots or ramps in a blender. Blend until smooth.

3. Add honey, cayenne, white pepper, salt, and pulse quickly.
4. Slowly pour in the oil with the blender on, and pour in the vinegar. Add the garlic mustard seeds with a final pulse. Store the dressing in the refrigerator, shaking before using.

Wild Blueberry Recipe - Wild Blueberry Jam

It takes a whole lot of time to gather wild blueberries in quantities large enough to make a single batch of thick, dark, sweet jam. We visited 3 different sites to pick enough, and the jam is worth the effort. I like it spread on scones and bread with butter. Wild blueberries are not quite as juicy as cultivated ones, and this jam is loaded with skins, making a very chunky product. I also always try to use low-sugar pectin. I like to taste the real fruit, but I also like to make sure the jam or jelly sets, since we put so much labor into gathering the berries.

Wild Blueberry Jam             makes about 8- 8 oz jars

6 1/2 c. washed, stemmed, crushed wild blueberries
3/4 c. water
4 1/2 c. sugar
1 box low-sugar Sure-Jell pectin

1. Wash, remove stems, and crush the blueberries by hand or with a potato masher in a large pot. There will be very little juice. Add 3/4 c. water to the berries.
2. Mix 1/4 c. of the sugar with the pectin in a bowl. Add to the crushed berries and bring to a rolling boil, stirring often.
3.  Add all of the remaining sugar at once, stirring to dissolve. Bring the jam back to a boil, and cook 1 minute.
4. Ladle into sterilized jars, seal, boil 10 minutes in a water bath to seal. Cool.

Foraging Edible Sumacs

staghorn stem

staghorn berries

There are 3 varieties of edible sumac in our area of New England--staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), smooth sumac (Rhus glabra), and dwarf sumac (Rhus copallina). Staghorn sumac twigs are covered in soft hairs, similar to a young deer's antlers, and the berries are very hairy. Smooth sumac has a purplish midrib between the toothed leaflets, and smooth twigs. Their berry clusters are usually larger and the berries are smooth. Dwarf sumacs have a winged rib between each mostly toothless leaflet and small, darker berry clusters. The berries are pink, red or dark red when ripe, but are not edible as-is, since there is no juicy flesh like traditional berries. It is the ascorbic acid, malic acid, gallic acid, and tannic acid on the outside of the hard berries that you want to use a a tart flavoring agent in spice mixes and beverages.

UPDATE: There is no oxalic acid on the berries. Thanks to Mike Krebill for clearing that up.

Edible sumacs are botanically related to cashews and mangoes, so those with allergies to them should also avoid sumacs. Edible sumacs are also related to poison sumac (Rhus vernix), which has drooping, white berry clusters and shiny leaves. Poison sumac can produce rashes and itching in people with a sensitivity, and should be learned so you can avoid it. We don't often encounter poison sumac, as it prefers a wetter environment than the edible sumacs, like swamps.

smooth sumac leaf

dwarf sumac leaf

Sumacs grow as tall shrubs in cleared areas, along highways, and old fields. The shrubs grow in dense stands and have alternate, feather-compound leaves divided into leaflets. When cut, the plant exudes a white latex. We have noticed that the three varieties ripen at different times, with staghorn berries turning red in July, smooth sumac berries ripening in August, and dwarf sumac berries ripening in September and October. It is important to gather the berry heads when fully ripe, and before it rains since the rain will wash away the tart flavors. We check for ripeness by simply licking a cluster, or rubbing a wet finger in the berry cluster and tasting our finger. Many berry clusters can be gathered and dried in a paper bag, then stored in airtight containers for use throughout the year.



A tart, pink, lemony drink can be made from the ripe berry heads. Soak 5-8 ripe berry clusters in 8 c. room temperature water, crushing the clusters in your hands. It is important to NOT use hot or boiling water, as it will dissipate the acids. Allow the berry heads to soak for a few hours, and then drain the liquid through a fine cheesecloth or coffee filter to remove the hairs and other debris. Smooth sumac usually makes the darkest pink drinkand staghorn sumac makes the most sour drink. Add sugar or honey to taste, and chill the sumac-ade. A stronger concentrate can be made by soaking more berries in the same water, and the concentrate can be frozen in ice cube trays to add to your glass of water instead of a lemon. We have also used the concentrate as an acid substitute in jellies, and similarly to lemons in sumac meringue pie.

smooth sumac berries

The berries of the smooth sumac can be gathered to make a spice mixture used in the Middle East known as za'atar. The berries are ground with a mortar and pestle with oregano, salt, toasted sesame seeds and thyme. The spice can be added to meats or brushed onto pita breads. Robert also like to chew on the new spring shoots of sumac that are tender and green. They are peeled and cut to make sure the tough center has not developed and eaten raw.

Here's a link of Russ Cohen discussing sumac late last autumn.

smooth sumac ripe berry heads

Wild Blueberry Recipe - Sweet Stuffed Rolls

Tiny wild blueberries (genus Vaccinium) take quite an effort to gather in quantity. The bushes may be a few inches off the ground or taller than our heads. Each bush also presents many variations in leaf shape and size, and the quantity of berries is different between bushes. The berries ripen in stages, so you may have to return several times. Wild blueberries tend to grow in very poor, acidic soil, or abandoned open fields where other shrubs are staring to take over. Here is a recipe for a sweet, yeasted roll stuffed with blueberry filling. The roll is soft and scented with vanilla seeds. The recipe makes about 18, and they did not last a day in our house between the three of us.

Sweet Blueberry Stuffed Rolls              makes about 18

Filling:
1 1/2 c. wild blueberries, washed
2 T water
2 T sugar
2 T cornstarch mixed with more water to make a slurry

Dough:
1 tsp. yeast
1/2 c. milk, warmed to 110°
2 c. flour
3 T sugar
pinch of salt
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
7 T cold butter, cubed

1 egg, beaten

1. To make the filling place the blueberries, sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil.
2. To make the slurry, mix the cornstarch with about 4 T water to make an opaque liquid. Pour this slowly into the berries, stirring constantly. Add just enough to thicken the filling, you will not need it all. Allow the filling to cool to room temperature.
3. To make the dough sprinkle the yeast over the warmed milk and let it sit for 5 minutes.
4. In a stand mixer bowl, mix the flour, sugar, salt and vanilla together with the paddle. Add the cold butter cubes and mix until crumbly. Add the milk and mix until a dough forms.
5. Change the paddle for the dough hook, and knead the dough until smooth, about 5 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
6. Heat the oven to 325° and line a sheetpan with parchment paper.
7. Roll half the dough into a rectangle about 1/4" thick and about 5" x 16". Scoop about 1 T of filling onto the dough in small scoops down the center of the dough the long way, leaving about an inch between the portions. Egg wash the edges of the dough and between the filling portions, and fold it over in half. Cut between the filling portions, to make a small ravioli shaped roll. Press the cut edges with a fork to seal. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
8. Egg wash the tops and cut some small slits in each roll. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until browned.
9. When the rolls have cooled, you can glaze them or sprinkle with powdered sugar.