Ramps Recipe - Ramps Twists

Here is a great use for the ramps pesto we make using the green leaves of our native edible wild leeks (Allium tricoccum). Another spring ephemeral, the leaves of the ramps start to poke up from the warming earth in April. They can be gathered for about a month and a half before they send up their flower stalk and the leaves begin to yellow and die back until next spring. We rarely dig the entire ramp, as this kills the plant and we don't use the bulb very often. The leaves are full of the funky-garlicky goodness we like, and we harvest the leaves by cutting one leaf from each cluster of 2 or 3 that each plant produces from its bulb. By taking only a few leaves from any area, we ensure the health of the ramps patch. They reproduce very slowly by splitting their underground bulbs, and digging them up as many short-sighted commercial harvesters do will destroy future sources of this delicious wild edible. Most of the recipes we come up with use the leaves, and the pesto recipe freezes well to use all year.

Find this recipe in our book.

Ramps patch

This recipe is available in our book, available Spring 2016.

http://www.skyhorsepublishing.com/book/?GCOI=60239108626260&

Garlic Mustard Recipe - Garlic Mustard and Cheese Ravioli

Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is another super-invasive plant in our area along the east coast. The whole plant is edible, the leaves, flower stalks, flowers, roots, and seeds that are produced in massive quantities. Eating this invader can be done for a good portion of the year, and the blanched leaves store well in the freezer. The flavor overall is garlicky, with a bit of a mustard bite that some people might find bitter. We like the second year's triangular leaves better than the oval, scalloped leaves of the first year's basal rosette, they tend to be more tender and less harsh. We like to pair the pungency of this wild edible with earthy flavors like mushrooms, plus rich textures like cheese in recipes, while still adding a good quantity of garlic mustard. This recipe is mostly about making a filling. You can fill wontons or pasta dough for ravioli, or even use it to stuff some puff pastry triangles or bread. We used some wild hen-of-the-woods maitake mushrooms, because that is what we had in the freezer, but grocery store mushrooms will work fine.

Garlic Mustard and Cheese Ravioli Filling     makes about 2 cups

1 T olive oil
1 c. chopped ramps or onions
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 c. chopped maitake mushrooms, or chopped shiitake mushrooms
2 1/2 c. garlic mustard leaves, roughly chopped
4 T farmer's cheese, or drained ricotta
1 T sour cream
1 tsp salt

1. Sautee chopped ramps or onion in the olive oil over medium heat until transluscent, 4 minutes. Add garlic and chopped mushrooms, cook until the mushrooms release their juices and it evaporates, about 5 more minutes.
2. Toss in 2 cups of the garlic mustard leaves and cover the pan, cook 2 more minutes to wilt the leaves. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool.
3. Put the cooked onion, mushroom and garlic mustard mixture into a food processor, and pulse a few times to mix. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of raw garlic mustard leaves, the farmer's cheese, sour cream and salt, and continue to pulse until the mixture is finely chopped. Taste and adjust salt.
4. Use the filling to fill ravioli, wonton wrappers, or as a spread.

First-year basal rosette

Second year leaves and flower stalks

Japanese Knotweed Recipe - Knotweed Fruit Leather

Japanese Knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum) is one of our most prolific invasive plants, it spreads by producing copious winged seeds in the fall and through underground rhizomes. Colonies of knotweed advance and can puncture up through the pavement in the spring, making them especially hated by public works employees who will try to cut down the stalks and poison the heck out of the plant. When gathering some knotweed shoots in the spring for consumption, try to get them from untreated areas and away from roadsides. They should also be picked before they are 12" tall; when they are still thick and have not unfurled too many leaves is the best time. To eat them raw, we prefer to peel the stalks, which can be difficult since the stalk is hollow like bamboo. When they are younger, the stalks are thicker and the peel comes off rather easily with a knife or potato peeler. For this fruit leather recipe, you can use smaller unpeeled stalks, or peel the larger ones with a stringier skin. Since we purchased a better blender, we can make this fruit leather without the peeling step.

Peeled knotweed stalks

The color is not particularly appetizing, olive green, but the flavor is similar to sour apples, without any of the knotweed's typical vegetal qualities. Our daughter, Gillian, really enjoys this snack and we had trouble keeping her away from the fruit leather long enough to take a picture. I tried two different methods of drying the fruit leather: the oven and the dehydrator. We have a cheap 1990's Ronco dehydrator that works just fine, using the fruit leather plastic tray. I then tried spreading the puree on parchment in the Ronco and it worked, but was a little more brittle. Then I spread some puree very thickly on some silicone baking mats on a sheetpan in the oven and it worked, but took the longest to dry. Once I removed it form the drying surface, I just rolled them up to store them in some glass jars.

Update: We finally saved enough money to purchase a good Excalibur dehydrator. This recipe makes enough puree to fill 2-12" square trays lined with the silicone liners. I use the fruit leather setting, about 130º F until the leather has darkened and dried. The old Ronco still works too!

This recipe is available in our book, available Spring 2016.

http://www.skyhorsepublishing.com/book/?GCOI=60239108626260&

Pile of knotweed peels

Photo Collage - Tylopilus alboater

Robert is attending Mushroom University through COMA (Connecticut Westchester Mycological Association), and the subject this year is the study of boletes. He knows the best way to learn his mushroom identifications is by photographing each species multiple times, at different stages of growth, and from many angles. Tylopilus aboater is also known as the black velvet bolete. It is very firm and solid, and from our own experiences and from those in our mushroom club, great eating. We also learned from our more experienced  club members to not handle this mushroom too much, as it will stain your hands black! From MushroomExpert.com:

Ecology: Mycorrhizal with hardwoods (especially oaks); growing alone or scattered; summer and fall; widely distributed east of the Rocky Mountains.

Cap: 3-15 cm; convex, becoming broadly convex or flat; dry; velvety; sometimes with a white dusting when young; black or dark grayish brown; in my experience, often darkening on handling.

Pore Surface: Whitish becoming pinkish; bruising red, then brown to black; pores angular, 2 per mm; tubes to 1 cm deep.

Stem: 4-10 cm long; 2-4 cm thick; more or less equal, or enlarging towards base; colored like the cap or paler; sometimes with a white dusting; fairly smooth; not reticulate or merely finely so near the apex; in my experience, often darkening on handling.

Flesh: Thick and white; discoloring pinkish on exposure to air, then turning slowly grayish; black in the stem base.

Odor and Taste: Not distinctive.

Trout Lily Identified

Leaves, stems, corms in their papery sheath

There are several spring ephemeral plants we look forward to harvesting after a long, dreary winter and our bodies are craving something green and fresh. Hairy bittercress leaves are one, trout lilies are another. Commonly called trout lilies, fawn lilies, or dog's-tooth violets, (Erythronium americanum) are only visible for a brief period in the early spring, poking up leaves in late March or April, and disappearing again by late June. The mottled leaves are said to look like spots on a trout, and the underground corm is shaped like a dog's canine tooth, hence the common names. The plants take advantage of the abundant moisture of the winter snow melt and spring rains, and the abundant sunshine before many deciduous trees leaf out and shade the forest floor before becoming dormant for the remainder of the year.

Leaves, underside and top

Trout lilies are small plants with one or two 3"-7" lance-shaped leaves growing from the underground corm, or small bulb. Each leaf tapers at the ends, and is a dull green mottled with greyish-purple spots that often fade as spring advances. A single flower is produced on a 4"-8" stem growing directly from the base of the plant. The flower has six backward curving petals and protruding stamens, and the whole flower often appears to be pointing downwards. There are 23 species of Erythronium lilies native to North America, and our local trout lily has a yellow flower, but other species can have pink or white flowers. Erythronium lilies are abundant in eastern woodlands, the Rocky Mountains, wetter parts of the Great Plains and Pacific states.

Trout lily flower

Some guidebooks claim the entire trout lily plants is edible, but we usually only eat the underground corm. The raw leaves have a mildly bitter taste that none of us like, and we have not tried to eat the yellow flowers. We sparingly dig the tiny corms once or twice a year if we come across a healthy patch of trout lilies while out in the woods already. We don't remove many corms, because that kills the plant, and they are slow to reproduce and are losing habitat in Connecticut quickly to houses and lawns. The corm is very small, between 1/8"-1/2" long, elongated, and covered in a light brown papery skin that we remove before eating. The taste of the corm in the earliest parts of the spring are very sweet, since they are full of natural sugars that the plant needs to produce leaves and its flower. As the season progresses, the corm will become more firm and starchy, but still tasty. It has a firm crunch and is flavored like sweet corn or sweet peas. Because of the small size of the corm, it is difficult to dig in quantity. You might want to add some peeled corms to a veggie stir fry like water chestnuts, or add them raw to a spring greens salad, but we like them best fresh from the ground while hiking along a trail.

End of season lilies, flower has died back, leaves are dying

Photo Collage - Boletus morrisii

This bolete is a very photogenic mushroom. Its pores start out bright red and fade to orange. The color of the cap varies greatly with the age of the mushroom, starting out dark purplish-red and almost velvety, aging to drab olive green and brown. While Roger's Mushrooms lists its edibility as "unknown", Bolete Bill has been heard to proclaim it delicious. It is a dense mushroom, heavy and solid. We found it in association with oaks in southeastern Connecticut, and hope to taste it the next time we come across a good specimen.

From Roger's Mushrooms:

fungus colour: Red or redish or pink, Brown

normal size: 5-15cm

cap type: Convex to shield shaped

stem type: Simple stem

flesh: Flesh discolours when cut, bruised or damaged

spore colour: Olivaceous

habitat: Grows in woods, Grows on the ground

Boletus morrisii Pk.Red-speckled Bolete Cap 3-10cm across, broadly convex; deep smoky brown to olivaceous, becoming reddish brown at center, with orange-yellow margin; dry, finely pulverulent, then smooth. Tubes usually deeply depressed around stem; yellow to ochre, reddish where bruised. Pores small; orange to brick red. Stem 40-80 x 8-15mm, equal to slightly swollen; bright yellow with very distinct and quite widely separate bright red squamules or dots nearly to apex. Flesh yellow with discolored areas of vinaceous or dark purple, especially in stem. Odor not distinctive. Taste not distinctive. Spores ellipsoid-subfusiform, 10-15(16) x 3.5-5.5(6.5)µ. Deposit olivaceous. Habitat gregarious or even subcaespitose in deciduous woods. Rather rare. Found from Massachusetts to northern Georgia, not known from western North America. Season July-September. Edibility not known.

Photo Collage - Suillus salmonicolor

It's no secret Robert loves to use his camera and he loves mushroom hunting. Put them together and you get some lovely pictures of his favorite genus, Boletus. These Suillus salmonicolor are mycorrhizal with 2-needle jack pine (Pinus banksiana) and are found most often in the late summer and fall. We were out looking for Leccinums last autumn when we came across several scattered groups of these in an area with lots of wild blueberries, hemlocks and jack pines. We did not try to eat these until we could identify them better, but may give them a taste the next time we come across a few, taking general Suillus eating precautions of peeling the cap and removing the pores.

From MushroomExpert.com:

Cap: 3-10 cm; convex becoming broadly convex or flat; slimy; smooth; orangish, dirty yellowish, brownish, olive brown, or cinnamon.

Pore Surface: At first covered with a thick, orangish to grayishpartial veil that is baggy and rubbery, with a white roll of tissue on the lower edge; yellow to orangish, becoming brownish with age; not bruising; 1-2 round or angular pores per mm; not boletinoid; tubes to about 1 cm deep.

Stem: 3-10 cm long; up to 1.5 cm thick; equal or with a slightly enlarged base; covered with glandular dots that are pale reddish brown at first and become darker with age; whitish to yellowish or orangish; with a gelatinous ring.

Flesh: Orangish to yellowish, often salmon orange in the stem base; not staining on exposure.

Odor and Taste: Not distinctive.